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A church with a breathtaking observation tower
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Experience the thrill of climbing the unique observation tower of Kumlaby Church. The journey involves navigating steep, sparse stairs, but once at the top, you’ll be rewarded with a magical view of Visingsö and lake Vättern. Visitors can explore both the church interior and ascend the truncated church tower.
The tower’s spire was shortened by Per Brahe the Younger in 1636 to create a platform for astronomical observations. To this day, this feature still allows visitors to enjoy panoramic views. On clear days, from the top of the tower, you can see four Swedish provinces: Småland, Östergötland, Närke, and Västergötland.
Aside from the tower, the church offers a beautifully preserved interior with exquisite 15th and 17th-century murals. The church has remained largely intact due to long periods of disuse.
The church is open daily during the summer season, from mid-June to mid-August.
Kumlaby Church dates back to the early 12th century, as evidenced by zigzag ornaments similar to those in other early 12th-century churches. During this period, Visingsö had two parishes: Kumlaby and Ströja.
When Per Brahe the Younger took control of the estate on the island, he consolidated the two parishes, leaving only one church in use. Ströja Church, later called Brahekyrkan, was remodeled into a chapel for Visingsborg Castle, while Kumlaby Church was repurposed as a school.
Per Brahe the Younger saw the need for a school on the island. Despite resistance from church authorities, he established the school in May 1636. Kumlaby Church was converted into a school with three classrooms, and significant modifications were made, including sealing some windows and entrances to suit the students' needs.
The spire was truncated to create an observation deck for astronomy lessons. For 175 years, the church served as a school. Today, visitors can stand where students once marveled at the night sky.
The church is now used for occasional services and is surrounded by a historic cemetery featuring well-preserved gravestones from the 17th century.
During summer, you can enjoy ice cream from the kiosk near the parking area or have a picnic at the adjacent heritage center. The heritage center is open for visitors in summer, offering a glimpse into 17th-century life.
Take the ferry from Gränna to Visingsö, a gem in lake Vättern with stunning nature and a rich history tied to the powerful Brahe family. Don’t miss Brahe Church, home to a wealth of artistic treasures. The island is easy to explore by bike or by horse-drawn carriage – remmalag. Here, you're close to nature and can meet alpacas, go horseback riding, or paddle a kayak.
By car
From Gränna harbour, take the ferry to Visingsö and follow the main road north for 3 kilometers to reach Kumlaby Church, where parking is available.